The Sleuth's mother, like Heloise of helpful household hints fame, has long been a believer in the manifold powers and uses of vinegar (use it as a weed killer and a meat tenderizer!) An Italian study also suggests that balsamic vinegars might, like red wines, have some antioxidant properties.

Antioxidants or no antioxidants, a splash of vinegar and olive oil is the most healthful way to dress a salad. Our five tasters checked out three affordably priced balsamic vinegars by using them, along with olive oil, as a dip for slices of crusty bread.

ALESSI BALSAMIC VINEGAR

Price: $3.99 per 12.75-ounce bottle

Nutrition (per tablespoon): 20 calories, 5 g carbohydrates (2 percent daily value), 2 g sugars

The verdict: Ouch! A harsh, astringent taste was charitably described by one of our tasters as ''assertive.'' It ''tastes more like red wine vinegar than balsamic,'' said another.

Grade: C-

ALMA'S BALSAMIC VINEGAR OF MODENA

Price: $2.49 per 8.5-ounce bottle

Nutrition (per tablespoon): 16 calories, 3 g carbohydrates (0 percent daily value), 3 g sugars

The verdict: The taster who found the Alessi brand ''too assertive'' said this one was ''too shy,'' and the other tasters agreed. ''Mild'' was the adjective of choice here.

Grade: B-

PUBLIX BALSAMIC VINEGAR

Price: $2.49 per 12.7-ounce bottle

Nutrition (per tablespoon): 15 calories, 4 g carbohydrates (1 percent daily value), 3 g sugars

The verdict: As in the story of Goldilocks, the third try was the charm, as the Publix brand was praised for being ''mellow but not too mild.'' It had the slightly syrupy, sweet-and-sour flavor characteristic of balsamic vinegar without harsh acidity. Though it's a Publix brand, the label says it's ``aged and imported from Italy.''

Grade: B+

The bottom line: Bottle shocker! The store brand beat out the fancier imports.

Have a product you want tested? E-mail glehman@MiamiHerald.com

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